How to Clean Your Commercial Coffee Machine (5-Step Guide)
Ever wonder why your espresso shots suddenly start tasting off? Even when the beans are fresh?
I don’t own a coffee shop myself (as I’ve mentioned over on Coffee Voilà), but I’ve got a handful of close friends who do.
Over countless late-night chats and behind-the-bar hangs, they’ve generously shared their real-world cleaning routines. The ones that have kept their commercial espresso machines running smooth and almost problem-free for years.
On the flip side, I’ve also heard my friend Rob’s horror story… He used to skip cleanings, thinking it wasn’t a big deal—until his steam wand clogged mid-rush and the machine basically tapped out. So let’s just say, he doesn’t skip cleaning anymore.
In this guide, you’ll learn the step-by-step cleaning process they follow: daily, weekly, and monthly to keep their machines brewing like new. So let’s start!
Why Cleaning Your Commercial Coffee Machine Matters?
If you’ve ever wondered why your lattes started tasting funky, it might be time to give your machine a little maintenance.

1 – Prevents Off-Tasting Coffee
One main reason is coffee oils go rancid fast. For this reason, you should clean group heads, portafilters, and steam wands daily. Even skipping one can start to throw off the taste. You want your espresso to taste like chocolate and citrus rather than charcoal and regret.
2 – Extends Your Machine’s Lifespan
If you’re running a commercial setup, you know that machine wasn’t cheap. A friend told me his La Marzocco Linea broke down on him once because the steam wand was clogged beyond belief.
The fact is milk residue had hardened inside like cement. That repair cost him nearly $400 and three days of downtime.
So, a little effort each night saves thousands in the long run. I suggest replacing gaskets, descale monthly if needed, and never ignoring a weird hiss or drip.
3 – Safety Regulations
If you’re in a commercial space, health code compliance is non-negotiable. I recommend keeping a checklist and documenting your cleanings. The last thing you want is for your espresso machine to be the reason for a violation.
4 – Running Smoothly
You know what’s worse than a busy rush? A busy rush and a jammed group head. You have buttons that stick, flow rates slow down, and even a portafilter flies off because of pressure buildup from gunked-up internals.
When everything’s clean, the workflow just… flows. Your team can focus on making great drinks rather than trying to solve problems. Besides, clean machines look more professional too. I mean nobody wants to see milk crust in their barista’s gear.
Daily Cleaning Routine (End-of-Day Tasks)
In this cleaning routine, I’ll use the La Marzocco Linea as an example. However, they all work kinda the same way. Just different buttons and quirks. But once you’ve got a rhythm down, it’s pretty painless.
Step 1 – Backflushing the Group Heads
If you don’t do this after a few days, your machine might start making weird hissing noises and pulling shots too fast. Usually, this has to do with group heads being clogged with coffee oils and gunk.
So, you shouldn’t forget to backflush. For this, pop in a blind filter, add a scoop of espresso machine cleaner (use Cafiza), and run the cleaning cycle a few times.
Then flush it again with just water until it runs clear. If you hear a squeak or smell something burnt—you’re overdue.
Step 2 – Cleaning the Portafilters and Baskets
You wouldn’t fry eggs in a dirty pan, right? Same logic here. After the last shot of the day, you pull the portafilters apart, drop them into a big bowl of hot water and detergent, and let ’em soak.
After 15 minutes, you give ’em a quick scrub with a brush. Then pay attention to the holes in the basket. Often old grounds love to hide in there.
Step 3 – Purge and Wipe Down the Steam Wand
Milk residue is like superglue if you leave it overnight. It can easily clog your wand so that it won’t steam the next day. And afterward, the cleanup will take forever.

You should always purge before and after every use during the day, and at closing you wipe it with a damp cloth. If there’s any crusty buildup, let the wand soak in a little pitcher with milk system cleaner and hot water for 10-15 minutes.
Step 4 – Clean the Drip Tray and Grate
This one gets nasty fast. I’ve seen baristas ignore the drip tray for days—it smells, gets slimy, and honestly it’s just embarrassing. Besides, customers notice that stuff.

So, pull out the grate, dump whatever’s inside (brace yourself), rinse everything under hot water, and give it a scrub if needed. Then dry it off before it goes back to stagnant water full of bacteria (yuk!)
Step 5 – Empty and Rinse the Waste Bin and Water Tank
This is the easiest step to forget and the one that bites you later. The next day you open the knock box and find mold. Not a good look.
For this reason, make sure to empty the waste bin every night, rinse it out, and let it dry upside down. The same goes for the water tank if your machine has one. It takes two minutes, and you’ll never have to deal with mystery smells again.
Notes: This whole routine takes maybe 20 minutes once you get into the habit. Your machine will thank you, and your coffee will taste way better.
Weekly Cleaning Checklist
Here’s the weekly cleaning routine I swear by. Feel free to copy/paste this table.
Task | Why It Matters | Pro Tip |
---|---|---|
Deep clean portafilter handles and shower screens | Keeps old oils and residue from affecting shot quality. | Soak in hot water and espresso cleaner, then use a small brush to get inside the nooks. |
Remove and scrub dispersion screens and gaskets | Prevents water flow issues and uneven extraction. | Use a flathead screwdriver and be gentle—those parts bend easier than you’d think. |
Use descaling solution if not connected to a filtered line | Removes hard water buildup in the boiler and pipes. | Use a commercial-grade descaler, not vinegar—trust me on this one. |
Clean exterior surfaces and touchscreens with food-safe cleaner | Keeps your machine looking sharp and avoids sticky buildup. | Microfiber cloths work best, and don’t forget under the edges—gunk hides there. |
Notes: This checklist helps keep things running smooth and looking clean, which customers do notice—even if they don’t say anything.
Monthly or As-Needed Maintenance
These are the deeper maintenance tasks you do once a month or sooner if something starts acting up. So, here’s a simple table you can use:
Task | Why It Matters | Real-World Tip |
---|---|---|
Descale boiler and internal pipes | Hard water leaves mineral buildup that slows performance and can ruin heating elements. | If your machine isn’t connected to a filtered line, descale every 4–6 weeks. I use a citric acid-based descaler—it’s safer on internals and doesn’t stink up the place. |
Inspect and replace gaskets, O-rings, and group head seals | Worn seals cause leaks, low pressure, and even safety hazards. | I keep a little zip bag of extras in the drawer. They’re cheap—just swap ’em out if you feel resistance changing or see water leaking down the portafilter. |
Lubricate mechanical parts (if applicable) | Prevents sticking and keeps levers, knobs, and valves moving smoothly. | A dab of food-safe lubricant on moving parts like the steam valve knobs works wonders. You don’t need much—just enough to feel the difference. |
Update or check machine software/settings | Smart machines can glitch or fall out of calibration over time. | I check firmware updates once a month on the manufacturer’s site. Also, double-check brew temp and pre-infusion settings—sometimes they get knocked out of whack after power outages. |
Recommended Cleaning Tools & Products
Over the years, I’ve tested many cleaning tools for espresso machines.
Some winners, some total duds. Anyway, here’s what I actually stick with to keep my machine (and coffee) in top shape.
Backflush detergent (e.g., Cafiza)
Cafiza is the gold standard. I’ve tried a couple of off-brand versions, but they either didn’t dissolve well or smelled weird.

But Cafiza works fast, breaks down coffee oils like a champ, and rinses clean. Just don’t overdo it—a half-scoop per group head is plenty.
Blind filter baskets
You’ll need one of these to backflush properly. I keep a spare in case someone accidentally uses it to pull a shot.

Group head brush
Look for one with an angled handle to avoid burning your fingers. I use the Pallo brush—it has stiff bristles and even a little detergent scoop built into the handle.

Descaling solution
If you’ve got hard water and no inline filter, descaling is a must. I use Dezcal or a citric acid-based powder—it’s safer on internals and doesn’t leave a chemical aftertaste. I don’t recommend ever using vinegar. Ever.

Steam wand soak (milk system cleaner)
Rinsing alone isn’t enough. I soak the wand once a week in a pitcher filled with hot water and a milk cleaner like Rinza. It cuts through dried milk buildup like nobody’s business.

Microfiber cloths and food-safe spray
This combo’s your best friend for daily wipe-downs. I like using the Ecolab Oasis 146 Multi-Quat Sanitizer. It’s food-safe and doesn’t leave residue. Plus, microfiber cloths won’t scratch your stainless steel, and they’re reusable if you wash them right.

Soaking containers or basins
I keep a dedicated plastic tub under the sink for soaking portafilters, baskets, and smaller parts. You want something deep enough for full submersion but not so big that it hogs all your counter space. Even better if it has a lid so you can store your tools in there too.

Last Thoughts
Got a cleaning trick I missed? Maybe a weird gunk-busting hack you swear by? And if you’ve got questions or ran into a cleaning disaster of your own, don’t be shy. I’d like to read your comments below.
I’m always up for learning something new or helping a fellow coffee enthusiast.
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